Moore Family Blog |
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Monday, November 03, 2003
Halloween breakfastI had breakfast with some friends on Halloween morning at the Peninsula Creamery in Palo Alto: Susan, Jackie, Sarah, Ally, Brenna, Becca, and Eric.(0) comments Saturday, May 17, 2003
Birthday party at a family's house in KabulFrom Kweilin:
(0) comments Tuesday, May 13, 2003
Mr. MFrom Kweilin:We got home around 4:00 p.m. and talked with some interesting MSH people. One of the Afghans that Daddy works closely with came to visit. His name is Mr. M (I forgot his full name). He is Muslim and had a really interesting story. He is the first one in his family to go to university and now he has an MSH job .... He is in business with his brothers who sell colorful cloth and other women's items in three different shops in Peshawar, Pakistan and Herat and Kabul, Afghanistan. He is obviously quite well off, but when he gets his pay check, it goes directly into the three brothers' family fund. He can spend whenever he needs to (i.e. if he is paying his child's school bill, it will come from his account). At the end of the year, they tally who gets how much of their one-third share. If they have spent more during the year on differen! t purchases, they will get less at the end of the year when the business shares are settled. We asked him whether there was any suspicion or anything of other brothers, and he said: "No. Because Islam teaches that whether or not somebody knows, you should never take something that doesn't belong to you. Allah will always see." He is a really honest guy, because he's worked for the UN and other places like MSH a lot, and there have been rampant opportunities to take money for his own personal use. He's always refused. He also told us that he folllows the Islamic teaching that you should donate 2.5% of the money that you are not using (or the jewelry or the cows or the wheat-- however you store your wealth) to the poor. He actually records it when he pays the rent of a relative or helps a beggar on the street. If he gets $100 this year for his family and he needs $60 to live, he will give 2.5% of the the remaining $40 to others as! alms. If that same $40 (or whatever is left of it) remains in s avings and is not used the next year, he will also give 2.5% of it again-- it is an ongoing thing every year. It was an interesting practice. I think most religions teach their believer's to do good and give to others, but I liked the idea that it was so specific in Islam (what to give was written in the Quran and some scholars did the calculations and it came out to about 2.5% of what you're not using, so that is widely used now). Of course Mommy was fascinated and thought it was a great idea. (0) comments Monday, May 12, 2003
Sunday, May 11, 2003
Panjshir, AfghanistanFrom Kweilin:Panjshir is supposed to be the most beautiful valley in Afghanistan and it definitely lived up to its reputation. There was a gorgeous river and LOTS of mountains. The entire road was completely unpaved and had lots of potholes and rocks. There were so many times during the day that we were banging our head against the side of the car because the road was so bumpy. During the day, we stopped by the nomads' tent. They roam across the valleys with their camels, donkeys, and hundreds of sheep. They never shower and live under their tents. They move every few weeks and walk for a month or so before they settle down again. It was fascinating. I finished my entire first tape on the camcorder -- a full hour of taping! I love having the camcorder because you can capture so much more and you can also show what you've taped to people and especially kids, and they love it. We had lunch at the same place as yesterday-- it was rice with beef kebabs. Since we are women, we sat in a special section with a curtain pulled and only the waiters came in to see what we wanted. The food was really good. There are SO many kids along the road. They are really very cute kids and so good natured. None of them have toys are anything, yet they amuse themselves and take care of themselves. Today was saw a bunch of girls as they were getting out of school. It was a really exciting day today. Tomorrow we're going to explore Kabul some more with our translator Somah. (0) comments Soccer game in KabulFrom Wan:We went with a driver to the only sports game in town, a soccer match between the English soldiers and the locals. It was at the stadium where they killed the former Prime Minister, dragged his body behind a Nissan pickup truck cut off his balls and then hanged him at the goal post for all to see. It was also at this stadium that the Talibans shot and killed a lot of women who they accused of having a close relatiohship with men they were not married to. thieves had their hands chopped off for stealing and many other atrocious crimes and punishments.At this game , the locals won 1 to 0 . We were the only females in the group except for the female soldiers from England. It was an exciting match for us to watch the Afgans screamin and running around the stadium after the first and only goal. However all around us at the stadium were soldiers with submachine guns on the ready and tanks poised to the sky ready to shoot an incoming plane. Part way thru the game , there was a sonic boom and all the soldiers rushed out to see if there was an attack. If there was an attack we would all be dead cos there is so much artilery around us and there were thousands of us stuck in that small stadium. However if we are overcautious as many Americans are, Kabul would literally become a prison.The US embassy is barricaded like for a war. (0) comments Outside Kabul: schools, children, land minesFrom Kweilin:We had a GREAT day today. This was our third day in Kabul and our first two days we stayed pretty much inside the city and went around to markets and to the outskirts of town. Today, Daddy arranged through a friend of his (the same people he went to Bamyan with for that three-day trip last week) to have two day trips around Kabul. So today at 9:00 a.m. we went to the north of Kabul on the road to Mazar-e-Sharif. There were at least 100 rusting and decaying tanks all along the road, and some rusting trucks too. A lot of the houses were crumbling and full of bulletholes and the vineyards had been burnt when the Taliban fled. Almost all of the families outside of town are very poor, and there were a lot of small stalls along the road. There are SO many kids here. I think an average woman has around 8! But then child mortality is pretty high too. With the growing number of cars and trucks, a lot of the! kids are getting hit and hurt by them. The countryside was really beautiful. There are huge snow-capped mountains and brown hills on all sides of Kabul. And we drove along a beautiful river today too. On certain parts, the bridges are bombed out, so you have to take a detour around. The roads were so bad that we had a flat tire half way through. The highlight of the day was visiting a school. The schools here are held in big tents (open air things held up by poles with some desks and a very small basic chalkboard inside). Most of the students are so poor they cannot even buy a notebook to write things down in, and the kids sometimes don't have pencils and pens. The school we visited had 1600 students and it was just two big tents! There is a morning session for the younger boys and an afternoon session for the older boys. There is a separate girls' school. Each class has about 200 people, so half the students are out in the sun at any one time because there isn't enough room under the tents. And then every so often they have to stop teaching because a big dust storm will start up and nobody can see. And there are no classes during the winter because there is snow and they can't be outside in an open-air tent in the snow. So Mommy was g! oing to give them money to buy notebooks, but we decided we should just buy the notebooks and deliver them ourselves. So we'll probably do that sometime over the next week. We'll have to go the market and buy some notebooks in bulk. We had a GREAT tourguide today. She is 24 and just came back from 6 years in Pakistan where she fled when the Taliban was in power. She was lucky to get away. She speaks pretty good English because she is an English teacher and she is really nice. She just got married a year ago, and when she found out that we wanted to go outside of Kabul today, we had to stop by to ask her husband's permission. By Aghan law, she can't go anywhere without her husband's permission. She had an arranged marriage but is very happy with her husband. She is going to join us for our day trip tomorrow too. I videotaped a lot of stuff today. The kids at the school were great. They were really funny and really energetic. Just fifty feet behind their school are three overturned and decaying trucks. It really is such a stark contrast to see this beautiful country and then see these tanks all over the place and bulletholes in everything. All along the road there are stones that mark whether the area has been searched for landmines or not. They say that Russia put in roughly 10 million landmines and they have found and removed 4 million so far. They go in with a big thresher-looking machine and then the landmines explode like popcorn. Sometimes, when they hit a reall big landmine, the machine will be disabled, but it never blows up because it is so heavily protected. They mark the area with stones that are painted red (that means it is NOT demined), stones that are painted white (that means that it IS demined-- although nothing is ever 100%), and stones that are painted half white and half red (that means that the area is partially demined). The day was amazing. It was really nice to get a sense of the rest of the country. It has been an incredible three days. (0) comments Poverty in AfghanistanFrom Wan:as I travel outside Kabul, I realize how unequal the "wealth " from donor countries have been. We see scores of young children with multiple buchets or pails in line and the water trickling out of a 4 inch pipe was hardly a trickle. It would take over half an hour to fill up a bucket. And then they carry it up the hill where they live in the mud huts .Water is a major problem here and especially in the outskirts. Education is a major problem here too . Yesterday in our drive into the hinterlands, we saw tents which acted as schools. We stopped at one just as the kids (all boys) were getting out. The teacher talked to us and told us the situation they are faces with. The school has 1600 students, divided into the morning and afternoon sessions.Each tent the size of the ones we get from Home Depot to park our cars, holds 200 kids. 50 to 60 in each class. So at any one time, half the school has to sit out in the sun on the gravel for their class. Even for those under the tent , only half have desks. The others sit on the floor too. Half the students have no notebooks or pencils.Each notebook cost 12 afganis which is about 25 cents US and of course this is beyound the reach of a lot of families whose income is less than US$30 a month.The teacher asked if we could help with notebooks, pencils and ballpens.We wanted to give cash to the teacher to buy for the students but the translator that it would be much better if we brought the notebooks to the school ourselves and distribute it out ourselves.Everywhere we went we met with such dire poverty. Kids at the age of 10 working at tire shops for 20 afganis a week, which is less than 50 cents US.we gave them money to buy icecream which cost 1 afgani each and they loved it. You feel you want to give everything you have just to relieve the poverty for a minute. (0) comments Friday, May 09, 2003
Day 2 in KabulAnother update from Kweilin in Kabul:Hi Li, This is our second day in Kabul. The weather is warm and dry but quite cold in the evenings. This morning we woke up early and stayed around the house until 9:30 p.m. and then we took a driver around and went to the market and walked for quite a while. It was very interesting and there was a lot of stuff there. The river here is one of the dirtiest I have ever seen and people live right by it and kids play in it. There were spices, ice cream machines, kebab stalls, banana stalls, lots of used clothes stalls, shoe repairmen, plastic things from China stalls. Everywhere we went there was a crowd of about 20 or so guys following us. It got tough to move around and take pictures after a while, but it was fun and interesting. At one point a guy pinched Oongie's butt and then was trying to slink away and right away a policeman caught him and hit him. It was good to see that they were watching out for us.&! nbsp; It did feel oppressive sometimes, but most of the time it was fun. I am on the lookout somewhat here, but much less than I remember in India. Towards the end of our long stroll in the market, we sat on the second floor of a restaurant and had tea ... The women all wear baby blue burkas around, and they truly look like giant penguins in the street. Somtimes they'll take up their burka to look at something that they want to buy in the market, but for the most part they keep it down. We also saw a few land-mine victims with one leg today. There are also a number of women blue penguins begging. One was on the ground wailing and begging at the same time today in the market and quite a few people were giving her money. A lot of the women beggars have a kid, so they are probably widows. After the long walk in the market, we got a ride back in the MSH van (it is so convenient to have a driver here-- it really makes a big difference). Then mommy cooked eggs and tomotoes and we had fresh nan at the house. It was really good and SO much better than the restaurants here which are really nothing to write home about. This afternoon we're meeting two people who might be arranging our trip to Mazar-e-Sharif later this week. Then we'll head out to the soccer game and then to an MSH person's house for the BBQ later on. ... Love, JAY (0) comments Kweilin, Steve, Wan in KabulMy sister and mom are visiting my father in Kabul, Afghanistan. Kweilin wrote the following update.Hi Li! It is 9:00 p.m. here and we had a really full day. Kabul is poor and quite dusty and everything has been bombed really badly over the past few decades-- by Russians and Afghan rebels and then recently by Americans. Most of it was done by the Afghans themselves as they fought for power. I used the camcorder A LOT, so you'll be able to see it. It is really hard to believe things are in such ruins. The people are beautiful here-- very striking. They have dark features and green or blue eyes. They are honest people but they all have pretty difficult lives. Most women walk around in light blue burkas. I bought one today for $5. They actually use mostly dollars here although they will also accept afghans. The burka covers EVERYTHING. There is a lace-like opening for my eyes, but that is a really minimal view. I can't even see my feet with it on! I don't really have to wear it, though, because most women here just wear a scarf and long sleeves all the time, so I can get away with just covering all my hair and neck-- everything except my face. I think I'll do that for a while. Yesterday we got to Delhi at 9:00 p.m. and spent the evening at the airport. There was a nice Sheraton hotel lounge that we paid $15 each to be in (including drinks and snacks!), so the night was quite comfortable-- we slept on the couches there. In the morning we rechecked the boxes of Chinese food and other ingredients that mommy brought along and then got onto the flight for Kabul. Kids and adults were walking around the flight and not paying attention to the "fasten seatbelt" sign the entire time. Flying in we saw all the mountains around Kabul-- everything is so dry! All day long there are small sandstorms when you have to close your eyes and turn your back to the sand. Apparently these are nothing to the big ones they get later in the year. The MSH people are very nice. It is a small world and we've met most of them already. Today is Thursday and at 1:00 p.m. Daddy started his 1.5 day weekend. So we went with a driver around town and saw a lot of things. There are bombed out planes and falling-apart buildings everywhere. We went into someone's house to see their living quarters and I taped a bunch of kids laughing and playing. The camcorder is great because I can play it back for them and they get really excited. Tonight we went out to dinner (not so good-- quite oily) with some other MSH people. There are surprisingly a lot of fruits and vegetables here-- mostly imported from Pakistan. There is also excellent "nan" or Afghani bread. We can put peanut butter and kaya and other things on it. I think we're going to visit a traditional Afghan wedding tomorrow-- that will be fun. On Sunday we might be leaving for a three day trip to Mazar-e-Sharif in the north (it is safe and we're getting a driver who really knows the area). We have email access in the house (we're all staying in the MSH compound), but it is quite slow. We will keep writing, though, so definitely send us an email every so often! Love, JAY (0) comments Wednesday, April 30, 2003
Top 100 April Fools HoaxesA coworker pointed me to this list of top 100 April Fools Hoaxes. I like number five, "Nixon for President": "I didn't do anything wrong, and I won't do it again."(0) comments Monday, April 28, 2003
Biked to WoodsideI went on a 50-mile bike ride, yesterday. Here's the route I took:
It would be so much easier if I could trace out the route visually and add notes describing the ride. (0) comments Wednesday, April 23, 2003
Vignettes from KabulDaddy is working in Kabul, Afghanistan, for Management Sciences for Health. He wrote the following update a week ago, after his first 24 hours in Kabul:Hi to all, Just a few vignettes from my first day in Kabul: I had no trouble getting a ticket from the airport counter for Ariena in New Delhi($250 one way cash only) The flight was only 30% full. I met some other NGO folks on the flight and sat next to an Afghan Internist who has worked his whole life here in Kabul at a big hospital which now has almost no lab machines or xray equipment. So he works completely by clinical impressions as to what is wrong with the patient. In other words, he has no help in his diagnostic exam from the lab or the xray which we consider so essential in the developed world, but is rarely present here in the developing world. I was met at the airport by an MSH driver. Since they don't have any machines to offload the baggage from the plane, at the small airport, it took longer to get the checked bags(2 hour wait) than the flight took from new delhi(1.75 hours). The people at MSH Kabul are a very nice group and we had a dinner together last night at a couple's house who are from Olympia, Washington. She works on contracting with the ministry of health giving money to other NGO's and he works with the Ministry of Finance trying to install Western type accountability and systems into there way of budgeting and paying out government money here. He is a Graduate of HBS class of 1971, and has had an interesing career in many countries doing this type of consulting work in accounting and budgetary systems. He told me the budget for the whole government of the entire country this year is only $500 million. 40% of which comes from revenue generated by local taxes and customs duties and 60% comes from international donors. I am getting oriented these first few days. Friday(today) is the only holiday in the 6 day work week here. So it will be a slow start which is just as well, I was taken for a drive around the city yesterday and it does look like I expected, maybe a bit worse, in terms of the amount of destruction of buildings. 23 years of civil war and two international superpower wars have made Kabul hardly recognizeably as a capital city of several million people. Many bombed out buildings are now the site for squatter families, who are returning refugees from Iran or Pakistan and have no house or land of their own. The daily life for the people here is very difficult, but their spirit is unbreakable. They are a long suffering and almost unsuppressible people, and I suppose that is what inspires the western workers who come here to try to help. It is that and the level of poverty, which is worse than almost any other country I have been in. The old markets and streets which existed here back in 1973 when we came thru here in our campervan, on a trip from London to Bangladesh, are no longer here, due the destruction from constant war. They are just now starting to get rebuilt and you can see the entreprenuerial spirit is still present in the people(mostly men). More reports later. Steve (0) comments Pictures from bike ride up Mount DiabloA few Sundays ago, I climbed Mount Diablo on my bike with Mike Samuel, a co-worker from Google. Mike posted pictures from our trip.(0) comments Mommy made it to BangkokMommy got out Kathmandu, despite a strike, and is now in Bangkok:Hi family, I am now sitting in our favorite email place just below Khao San Rd. I left KTM today in spite of the general strike throughout the whole valley. The students were protestiing the price of oil and wanted the government to reduce it to last year's level. They called a general strike last Sunday while I was trekking in Poky so I did not know about it. The whole country was at a standstill. They called for another strike today and all the shops , taxis, buses, cars were off the street. The only people making it big were the rickshaw pyullers,and a few tuks tuks. I took a tuks tuk to the airport of 200 rupee cos I asked a local in front of me how much he paid. They were asking for 1000R.So I was glad to be able to get out of KTM and even tho I was on the wait list I knew I had a good chance of getting a seat. The whole plane was full cos a lot of Nepalis were on their way to work in Malaysia.The plane left at 2 pm and arrived BKK at around 7 pm. I did not have the notebook and no STeve ,so did not have the guest house numb er. Fortunately, even tho I arrived at her place after 8 pm she had a room for me and it was the same room that I had the last time and facing the garden. I was very happy. The first thing I did was of course took a shower and right away went off to the night market and ate and ate and ate. Now I am doing email to you guys after the wonderful food of Thailand. (0) comments Tuesday, April 22, 2003
Mommy's Nepal trekMommy e-mailed us some exciting updates about her trek in Nepal:Hi guys, I am back from my trekking trip from Jomson to Pokhara. I only did it in 3 days but doing 10 to 11 hours a day and instead of going out thru Poon Hill, I decided I was not interested in trekking up a big hill and trekkingh down and seeing the same scenery. I was sore. the plane from Ktm to Pokhara was cancelled the nite you flew to Delhi and so I shared a taxi with a nepali man and a couple from Calcutta. We arrived at Poky around midnite and cbut I was not afraid of the taxi man.I stayed 2 nites in Poky and bougnt a Gurka Air tix to Jomson. I did not take a guide or porter and was glad I did it this way cos I walk slow and I did n ot want the porter to wait the whole day for me. The trail is quite popular especially with donkeys and porters. I found my way by following the donkey poop all along the way and stayed in tea houses along the way. It was an ewxperience to trek alone but I was never afraid.It was also not an easy trek cos I keep going up and down mountains and deep revines , full of stones and rocks and poop so you have to watch every step of the way. You could not take a step without looking down.The wcenery was wild and beautiful but each nite I was so thankful to stop. It is an experience I am gladI did but I would not do it again.Going around in the camper is better way to go. Li, Good to see your reply.I can at least say I was the only woman to trek alone and without a porter or guide on this trek. As for the trip, I actually did loose weight on these 4 days cos I would only eat 2 eggs and some potaatoes in the morning, drink some black tea in the afternoon, and in the evening eat dal bhat or 2 packets of noodles with 2 eggs for dinner. I drank the water along the way with 3 drops of iodine and a bit of tang in it. I did not get sick as many hikers did but they ate all the wrong food.Food at the beginning of the Jomson trail was expensive and all the prices on top were controlled by the association of trekking. But as I got lower down, prices started dropping. I stayed at guest house that averaged from 50 rupees to 80 rupees a nite. It is 76 to the dollar so I was not exactly breaking the bank on this trip. I started waling at 6 am and did not stop till 5 or 6 pm. I probalbly took about one and a half hours more than the other people but I did not want to keep up. I did not take a plane back to KTM from Poky because I was afraid it would be cancelled again. The 7 hour bus ride from Poky to KTM was a frightening trip and I was glad to arrive in one piece and so I tipped the driver well. ( I sat right up front of the bus so saw everything including accidents head on)I have been tipping a lot of people but only about 20 to 50 rupees each. I still have some money left and I was glad that you Steve gave me the money from your Swiss francs cos I am using it all up. The first thing I did on arriving at KTM was to check into the same room that your father and I occupied , took a bath, canged my dirty clothes and then went downstairs bakery to have a pot of tea and pastry.Tonite I will go and have a dinner at the Chinese restaurant here cos I need some good food.I was so happy to find the email place again. We appreciate such simple things after a few days of toughing it out. As I am writhing this, the person next to me said there is a transportation strike tomorrow and no taxis or buses all over the country. So I will have a hard time going to the airport. I will try to hire a motorbike man to take me to the airport or take a rickshaw. They are afraid the students who are organising this strike will beat them up.I hopre I can get to the airport cos the chances are better for me to get a seat on the plane. (0) comments Monday, April 21, 2003
Pager trainingI'm going to start carrying a pager this week, so that I can fix problems when things break. I learned how to respond to pages this afternoon. I'll be in the rotation with the other engineers on my team. I think each engineer gets the pager for a week at a time.(0) comments Tooth cavity fillings cost $713!I went to the dentist, last week, for a checkup and a cleaning. The dentist found a few cavities, and his assistant sent me an estimate for how much fillings will cost: $713.20! Part of the reason the fillings are expensive is that this dentist only does tooth-colored fillings, which are more expensive than silver fillings. Delta Dental, the dental insurance company that I'm signed up with, only pays for silver fillings, though, so I have to pay the difference. Delta is paying $952.80, which means that the total treatment cost is $1,666.Since it's so expensive, I don't think I'll get the work done at this dentist. I could do one of the following:
(0) comments Sunday, April 20, 2003
Lindy in the Park, Cherry Blossom Festival ParadeI spent the day in the City, today. I danced swing for an hour at Lindy in the Park, and then I spent a couple of hours at the Cherry Blossom Festival in Japantown, watching the closing parade and eating Japanese food. The parade featured floats from various local and visiting organizations, like the Boy Scouts and a traditional dance group from Tokyo. The two Taiko floats were the most exciting. Each float had 10 drummers, and they were all pounding away as hard as they could. They played a catchy rhythm.(0) comments Saturday, April 19, 2003
70-mile bike ride to coastI just got back from a 70-mile bike ride from Mountain View (California) to Pescadero Beach and back! The longest ride I'd done until today was 40 miles. I rode with seven co-workers from Google. This is roughly the route we took. It was a beautiful day, and the company was great. I wore biker shorts and a jersey for the first time, and I put two water bottles and a comfortable seat on my bike. I was on my mountain bike for my last long ride, and I find a road bike much easier.I wish I had pictures of today! I would have had a beautiful shot of the whole group with the beach in the background. I need to buy a pouch to put under my bike seat, so that I can bring my camera. I also need to get a windbreaker that I can stuff in my jersey pocket, because I was cold on some descents. I should get biking shoes, too, but I was pretty comfortable in my sneakers, today. (0) comments Monday, April 14, 2003
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